Golden Valley Pilgrimage Way: Places
Walking a 'Pilgrim Way' sets physical targets while also experiencing the natural world. The sacred places encountered along the route can enhance the inner journey for the spirit too. The pilgrim hopes to return inspired and refreshed, and able to face life's challenges with new strength and purpose.
City of Hereford
Originally the name city was given to a place which had a Bishop and so a Cathedral.
Name means: Army ford. This was not a ford for a Roman road but a later one used by Saxons / Mercians. Hereford was an early burh or fortified centre, the old perimeter still marked by Victoria Street, West Street, East Street and Mill Street. See: Richardson & Musson, 2011.
As a Medieval city (town with a Bishop) Hereford has many historic buildings, such as the Booth Hall, and historic sites, such as the Castle Green. See: Hereford's Mystery Plays
Cathedral: dedicated to the Virgin and St. Æthelbert:
- Putta (676 AD) first recorded Bishop of Hereford.
- Original Saxon Church rebuilt by Bishop Æthelstan between c1020-1040, was destroyed in 1055 by the Welsh and Ælfgar Earl of Mercia (son of the famous Lady Godifu / Godiva and father–in–law of King Harold who lost the 1066 Battle of Hastings). The Cathedral was rebuilt between 1107–1148.
- The ancient Hereford Gospels book (c. 790 AD) survived the destruction and is one of the most important spiritual treasures of the diocese. The Chained Library is world's largest surviving example.
- The Cathedral became a favoured destination for pilgrims through the ages, especially to the shrines of St. Æthelbert and St. Thomas Cantilupe:
- St. Æthelbert, King of the East Angles, died at the command of King Offa in 794AD (see Offa's Dyke below), shown on the floor in front of thealtar (see St. Æthelbert's statue on right) and in a roundel on >west front. Shrine destroyed in 1055, when the cathedral attacked by Ælfgar and his Welsh allies. St. Æthelbert's Well is sited nearby on Castle Green.
- Bishop Thomas Cantilupe (bishop: 1275-1282) was made a saint in 1320 AD, after hundreds of healing miracles were recorded in his name. The Medieval shrine still exists, and was second in popularity only to the Shrine of St. Thomas Becket of Canterbury.
- It was at this time, c.1290 AD, that the extraordinary Mappa Mundi was created ‐ a miracle of survival. It is an encyclopaedia of 13thc. knowledge of the religious and secular worlds on one single sheet of vellum.
- Worth checking the misericords, under the small ledges which allowed Medieval choirs to appear tobe standing while perching. The carvings underneath were not meant to be seen so the carver had a lovely time carving all sorts of things, some polite and others from daily life....
- Hereford Cathedral School one of the oldest schools in the country, probably a Saxon song school but definitely mentioned in a letter of 1384.
- The Cathedral's west tower collapsed Easter Monday 17th April 1786 ‐ major rebuilding 1841‐63.
- Thomas Traherne Windows, stained glass by Tom Denny (2007) in the Audley Chapel are a delight. They commemorate writings of Thomas Traherne, one of the lesser known 17th c metaphysical poets, who was born in Hereford. Look for swallows, moths and beetles ‐ there is even a tiny Hereford Bull.
- In the nave the SAS (Special Air Service) Memorial 'Ascension' window (2017) commemorates the 75th anniversary of the founding of the Regiment in Hereford in 1941. It has three thousand pieces of glass in forty different colours.
Cathedral Chained Library
The Cathedral's Chained Library is the world's largest surviving library that shows books chained to prevent theft. Another of its treasures is a Cider / Sidir Bible so–called because John Wycliffe, the Protestant Reformer, translated The Gospel of Luke, chapter 1, verse 15 as: For he (John the Baptist) shall be great in the sight of the Lord, and shall drink neither wine nor sidir....
The usual translation for cider is strong drink. Wycliffe (c.1328–1384, when he was burned at the stake) had several helpers one of whom was Nicholas of Hereford, so perhaps Nicholas was responsible for translating this verse. Cider, made from apples, is our local drink. Perry is made from pears. To go–a–wassailing (from Old English / Old Norse, meaning to be in good drink or good health) was traditionally carried out on Twelfth Night. It entailed dancing, singing and general fun in orchards to ensure a healthy fruit crop... See: Herefordshire Through Time.
Interestingly, the Cider Bible has the earliest known reference to cider and it seems clear that Wycliffe and his team knew all about cider and perhaps enjoyed drinking it. On your route you will pass numerous orchards. In the past, nearly every farm had at least one orchard to serve its cider mill and it is said that babies were often baptised in cider as it was safer than local water. By the way, if you ask for a cider shandy in any pub, it is cider and lemonade – and very refreshing...
The Bishop's Palace
In Medieval times all Bishops lived in Palaces but few do now. Hereford has many buildings of note and the Bishop's Palace's late 12th century Great Hall is still discernible, despite subdivisions. The roof is wonderful as the timber is joined with wood pegs and no nails.
All Saints' Church
Mostly 13th / 14th centuries, on an older site, with later repairs. It faces down Broad Street which was once the town's farming market area. The buildings near the Church have Medieval cellars.
St. Peter's Church
This church is Hereford's other Medieval Church. Originally built c.1035 it was re–founded in 1080 by Walter de Lacy (see Longtown). In 1085 he climbed the tower to check on the building work, fell and was killed. His son gave the Church to the Benedictine monks of Gloucester Abbey.
